The natives refer to them as the Aloha
shirt. The rest of the world remembers them as the Hawaiian shirt. These casual
and easy styles were trademarked as the "Aloha shirt" in 1936 by Ellery Chun,
responsible for the first official sales of the Hawaiian shirt. After taking
over his father's Dry Goods store in Honolulu, Mr. Chun expanded the inventory
to include the newly designed shirts which were made from leftover Kimono
cloth. With popularity rising, he and his sister went to work producing three
to four dozen shirts at a time, importing fabric from Japan, China, Tahiti, and
the United States. His sister, Ethel, created designs focused on Hawaii instead
of Asia and created the Hawaiian shirt design incorporating Hula girls,
pineapple, and palm trees.
When the Honolulu Advertiser, a popular
newspaper, coined the "Aloha shirt" term, the fashion began receiving credit
outside of Waikiki. The first advertisement for the shirts was published in
1935 and soon the shirts were seen on surfers, locals, and tourists. The labels
became so widespread that retail chains began to produce the shirts. Many
servicemen who were stationed in Hawaii during the Second World War, returned
home with the Aloha shirts. Soon after, means of travel expanded and people
were able to take airplane flights from the mainland to the islands. It was
Alfred Shaheen who was responsible thereafter for
designing, printing, and producing the Hawaiian shirt in the same location. The
same prints were then used for sundresses for women.
As of now, the Hawaiian manufacturing
industry exports the Hawaiian shirt primarily. These shirts are printed with a
variety of patterns, old and new, with a collar and short sleeves. The Aloha
Hawaiian shirts are either pull over or button down on the front with a left
chest pocket. These unisex shirts express Polynesian motifs and floral
patterns. While they are known for their bright colors, native Hawaiian men
often wear Hawaiian shirts which are muted in their color and have traditional
quilt designs, floral patterns, or tapa designs.
Contemporary shirts aimed at tourists
often display drinks, automobiles, or sports logos. Those meant for locals are
considered formal attire and appropriate, if not encouraged in the business and
government sectors. They equal the standard shirt, coat, and tie of the United
States which are all impractical given the hotter climate of Hawaii. Local
residents who appropriately wear the less busy of the patterns are referred to
as Kamaaina while the newcomers are Malahini who wear the brighter colored Hawaiian shirts. The
less busy shirts permitted in all but the most formal of events are printed on
the interior of the cloth which creates the muted exterior color. These are
referred to as "reverse print". The Malahini often
think of this as a manufacturing defect. Complementing the female muumuu, the
Hawaiian shirt is worn by men at weddings, dinners, or birthday parties, all of
which are designated as "Aloha Attire".
Aloha attires doesn't is more than just
acceptable birthday party garments. As part of the philosophy, culture, and
lifestyle of Hawaii, these shirts became a symbol. "Aloha Week" was established
by the Honolulu Chamber of Commerce which allowed employees of Hawaii to wear
the Hawaiian shirt between June and October. This was allowed after the Aloha
Week festival was formed. This festival revived Hawaiian culture by spreading
and entertaining Hawaiian sports, traditions, dancing, and music. The
activities which prompted the widespread appropriation of Hawaiian shirts as
business attire included a holoku ball, a makahiki festival, and a floral parade. The popularity of
the festival week benefitted the sale of Hawaiian shirts and muumuus. The
tolerance of the Hawaiian shirt did not simply stop with a few months out of
the year. In the Senate, a resolution passed which allowed Aloha attire to be
worn on "Aloha Friday" which began as the last business day of the week, and
has spread to the mainland where it took form as "Casual Friday". "Aloha
Friday" is now the Hawaiian version of TGIF, and supports the immigrant-created
Hawaiian shirt.